La carbonara di Nonna Silvi

What is “guanciale,” and why does real carbonara use it?

Nonna Silvi’s carbonara starts with guanciale — cured pork cheek — not pancetta or bacon, the substitutes most non-Italians reach for. Guanciale is fattier than pancetta, so as it browns it renders enough silky fat to bind with egg and cheese into carbonara’s signature cream, without the watery texture pancetta can leave behind.

Food historians note the dish’s very first versions may actually have used pancetta, and Roman cooks later standardized on the local guanciale — so calling pancetta “wrong” isn’t quite fair historically. Still, ask an Italian for the authentic version today, and guanciale, eggs, Pecorino Romano, and black pepper is the answer you’ll get.